Corrugations and more corrugations on the road to the isolated park Nevado Tres Cruces. Axel had to

We all settled in at the Refugio making sure our nest was layered with as many insulatory items as possible and with minus 15 degrees that night we were luckier than the portenos with our decent sleeping bags. That morning we delayed getting out of our now cosy warm sleeping bags but with the sunshine it turned out to be quite pleasant outside with a fabulous view of

We decided to head back to Copiapo as apart from the harsh conditions scaring us off there was also no potable water, the water being rich in salt aswell as arsenic!
We took a nasty sandy

Axel spent a couple of hours trying to diagnose the problem but at around 5 we decided we had to do something. We packed Perla Negra with the basics for overnighting and headed two-up for a small border post 40km down the road. There we explained the situation, just hoping for a patch of ground for our tent that night, but the carabineros (police) were super helpful and friendly. First they decided that on no account were we to leave the Russian out on the plain. Mentioning illegal miners and poachers hunting Guanacos...peligroso peligroso! So, with a confiscated Toyota Hilux (long story) Ceferino the Carabinero and two customs officers, set off to salvage the Russian. It was getting dark by the time they pulled on their serious cold weather overalls, grabbed torches and emptied the fancy Hilux of what looked like mining equipment. I was left behind to nurse a cold and waited patiently for them with the SAG (ministry of agricultures border controls) officer in front of the telenovelas. We kept a watch on the progress of their headlights through the binoculars and about 3 hours later they arrived. The Russian had been towed behind the Hilux and Axels normally black motorbiking gear was a khaki camo from a layer of powdery sand. It had been a harrowing ride for him in the pitch dark with the dust billowing up from the pickup to create zero visibility.
Our bed that night was a luxurious mattress on the floor of the heated police office in the customs building. The next day after breakfast with Ceferino Axel got down to work on the Russian while I chatted to Ceferino

The 150km back to Tierra Amarilla were quite different to the road in: I was up front in the cab chatting with the driver, listening to music and sipping coca-cola while Axel on the BMW savoured gunning it through sand and rough roads without having to cringe at each jolt.
Tierra Amarilla
Tierra Amarilla is surrounded by ochre coloured hills and open cast mines, it is warm by day but cold at night. Life here is dictated by mining: residencials cater for the workers, as do bars, most pickups mount red flags on long antennae and the town shield is a miners helmut, a pick and hammer.
A kingdom for a magneto, an english book or another motorbike
Axel was feeling really down when we found out how much the magneto would cost, again considering getting rid of the Russian. I did my best to convince him out of that idea but I think

We were looking at USD500 for the magneto and another USD120 for the 'express' delivery with Fedex. If you followed the new 'diary' page you will know that 'express' is an unsuitable word for the Fedex service. An agonising 3 week wait for the part which was supposed to take 4 to 5 days. The most frustrating being the endless phone calls speaking to the clueless but nevertheless 'tomorrow-it-should-arrive' people. We would have been better off with the 2 to 3 week normal postal delivery.
When not plagueing Fedex Chile we spent our days repairing, cleaning, reading and learning spanish. There was no cinema or nightlife so Axels
